MINIONS Non-invasive methods for personalising dermocosmetic treatments

The effectiveness of cosmetic products involves the controlled penetration into the skin of the active compounds they contain. Knowing the composition and morphology of the skin barrier is essential to understanding the mechanisms of diffusion of cosmetic active compounds. For this reason, the development of non-invasive analytical tools describing the skin barrier function is a major challenge that offers prospects for the personalisation of topical treatments.

Multimodal approach for the design of cosmetic products adapted to all skin types

Use of Raman spectroscopy

This project on the personalisation of dermocosmetic treatments is based on the creation of a multimodal analytical approach, combining Raman spectroscopy, high resolution and photoacoustic ultrasound imaging and biological studies to collect biochemical (hydration, lipids, proteins, etc.) and histological (thickness and organisation of skin layers) information from in vivo human skin. Taking into account this information and the physicochemical properties of the cosmetic forms, correlative mathematical models for predicting the diffusion kinetics of the cosmetic active compounds will be proposed. Ultimately, being able to understand the condition of the barrier function through rapid analysis will make it possible to design products to suit every skin type for an optimal effect.

Custom personalisation of dermocosmetic treatments with plasma spray

The personalisation of dermocosmetic skin treatments will be reinforced by the development of a new generation of plasma spray technologies that will be able to modulate the physicochemical properties of topical treatments without disrupting or mechanically altering the barrier function. Changes in molecular interactions at skin level due to the application of cosmetic active compounds in the form of plasma spray could act on their behaviour in relation to their skin penetration and these action mechanisms need to be studied for a better understanding and optimisation of the delivery of cosmetic active compounds. The innovative combination of plasma spray and Raman spectroscopy on in-vivo skin will allow optimisation of the application conditions and therefore custom personalisation of dermocosmetic treatments.
Project partners 4 ACADEMIC laboratories
  • NMNS (EA6295 – University of TOURS)
  • IBRAIN (U1253 – INSERM)
  • GREMI (UMR7344 – University of ORLÉANS)
3 INDUSTRIAL partners
  • Transderma Systems, TOURS (37)
  • Spincontrol, TOURS (37)
  • Laboratories ERIGER, TOURS (37)
  • 4 post-doctoral researchers
  • Le Studium international researcher: Recruitment in progress…


K€ over 3 years

for regional (ARD CVL)

Contact Franck BONNIER NMNS (EA6295 – University of TOURS) Emilie MUNNIER NMNS (EA6295 – University of TOURS)